Reverberations in Verdant Vastness

Every time I return to this lake, I leave behind another slice of time. In these intervals, I find myself daydreaming — sometimes of living in a small hut by the lake, sometimes of moving into a temple. Yet, amidst these dreams, I harbour a concern that that the lingering attachments from my past may entangle me once more on my path.

It was then that PiJoe, Joe the brother, beckoned me among the pineapple flowers — to youthfulness, immortality, and regeneration. Standing approximately two meters tall and one meter wide, they are as prickly on the outside as they are within. PoTum, the Father, had pruned them with a sharp panga knife just a few weeks ago. At this blooming stage, they are known as the ‘red heart’ due to the red bracts that grow at the base of the stem. Each bloom promises to taste and smell as delightful as a ripe pineapple. I felt a pang of sadness knowing I wouldn't taste these fruits which would be ready months later when I will be gone.

As we toured the Father's idyllic garden, PiJoe, a vigorous man in his fifties, deftly plucked a ripe papaya using a long papaya picker. It's notoriously difficult to predict the flavour of a papaya unless you've plucked it yourself from a tree. Eager to taste its creamy orange flesh, we headed back to the hut where others lounged, as the sun dipped below the horizon on the far side of the lake.

Nong once shared with me that the sunset shifts across the lake from the left corner to the right throughout the year. This, alongside its surface adorned with wild lotuses and the eagles perched on the islet within, is why we all cherish this verdant vastness. It's been seven years since Nong first explored Plai Phraya with a British speleologist studying in Taiwan. He believes there's much to uncover in this town, beginning with its habitants. Despite being from another province, he's been warmly welcomed by the local community in my view. I sense a deep connection between the Father and Nong, both eager to launch a community-led tourism project to share this peaceful way of life with others. This project is the reason our paths crossed.

Near the hut, a large fish lay smoking over the fire. Above the flames, a teapot hung, simmering with marijuana leaves. Meanwhile, the children enjoyed cooling off by sucking on mango-flavored ice cubes to beat the heat. Amidst this bustling scene, where do I place myself? For me, the true joy lies in finding a quiet corner to observe the people, the harmony of nature both within and around them. From the very first day we met, when the Father asked me to call him father, I felt a sense of liberation in his warm gaze. It was as if in that moment, I resolved the conflicts I'd carried since adolescence with my biological father — without injustice towards anyone, neither to myself nor to them.

Visiting MePun’s, the Mother, 78-year-old mother at her birthplace, where she lived until marrying the Father, I also met her younger sister. They greeted us warmly, dressed in colourful batik-patterned sarongs — tubular skirts wrapped around their waists. These sarongs are a staple attire for local Southern women. For everyday wear, they pair their sarongs with moisture-wicking t-shirts. On more significant events like weddings, funerals, ceremonies, and anniversaries, they opt for loose lace blouses worn over the sarong. The sarong is valued for its simplicity, comfort, and versatility.

One day, The Mother offered me one of her handwoven cotton sarongs from her closet, where many others were neatly arranged. She suggested a dark red one embellished with large pink lotus flowers intersected by blue triangle stripes, which I wore with pleasure. She knew of my fondness for lotus flowers, as 'baw' was one of the first Thai words I learned.

I find solace in the local way of life and their rustic dwellings nestled within the forest. These single-floor, rectangular houses blend seamlessly into their surroundings, their doors always open to lush gardens teeming with flowers and fruits. The architecture features spacious, open-air platforms elevated on stilts, complemented by smaller enclosed living spaces made from modular panels and crowned by high, peaked roofs. There's a perpetual sense of flow around these houses. Here, there are no rigid rules, no set schedules, no rush during meals. Imagine a frog leisurely clinging to your room's wall — such moments are part of the daily rhythm here.

The Mother invites me to join her visiting the nearby temple where she often prays. NaDaa and Pin, holding onto their grandmother's hands, lead the way through the forest. The keen-eyed woman greets every house we pass with a warm "Sà-wàt-dii." At the garden of this humble temple, children gleefully fly kites, their vibrant colors filling the sky. I count five kites, each in a different hue, while NaDaa, in her blue attire, playfully keeps eye contact with me. Perhaps this sense of acceptance, simply for existing without the need for words, was what I yearned for all along.

Inside the temple, monks glide in silence, embodying the principles of dharma as they walk from one point to another. Pin keeps a watchful eye on me. Through a doorway adorned with dragons, incense wafts gently, creating an atmosphere of solitude within, while outside, the kites' cheerful cries echo. Hesitant to take another step, unsure if the moment is right, the Mother's voice calls out to me from afar:

— Vanessa, bai ban!

Back in the jeep, the sun casts a warm glow on Mother's reddish skin. With her petite face and graceful, tall figure, how beautiful she is. The little ones huddle in our laps, and NaDaa sweetly chats with MePun, who listens intently. The landscape of palmy hills and mountains stretches endlessly, and I feel a profound sense of belonging in the face of this sunset. Caught in the twilight's afterglow, I am surrounded by the lushest, greenest leaves I've ever seen. As we pass through the city centre, the darkness is brushed away by this warmest breeze and replaced by the glow of neon lights. It feels as though my heart is being healed, the pain I've carried in this life cycle is beginning to dissolve.